Finally home for a few days, and a chance to catch up and review some of the best new releases from a few of my favorite Colorado wineries. Many of you will find these notes ‘academic’, in as much as you don’t believe you can get the wines. Yet you can! All of these small family-owned businesses need our support, and can ship directly to most states. Colorado’s high altitude, short growing season, very cold winters and penchant for fall or spring frosts challenge growers almost every year. The two principal AVA’s are Grand Valley and West Elks, though aspiring to become better known and with fine high altitude vineyards is the Four Corners/Dolores region in the extreme southwest of the State.

On the Eastern Slope, which is generally colder and often windier, virtually all of the scant number of vineyards can grow only cold-hardy hybrids such as Aromella, Marquette, Petit Pearl, Verona and others.

Why should you buy, or even try Colorado Wines? It’s time that Colorado wines gain the kind of recognition that the State’s craft breweries have. While many wines are made from the usual suspects like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, what is clear over the last few years is the region’s aptitude for distinctive takes on Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Viognier, which often show a discernible sense of savoriness along with the fruit indicative of their European origins. More interesting to me,and others who have recently commented on the ‘need’ for consumers to search out unusual varieties reveals that Colorado seems quite suitable for, including Teroldego, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner & even Pinot Noir among the Vinifera varieties, and very stylish hybrids made from Aromella, Chambourcin, Petit Pearl and others.

While prices are up (somewhat) from five years ago, Colorado has suffered severe frost issues, lower production and like everywhere else, higher costs for labor, equipment and opportunity costs. Thus, prices are fair given the care, attention to detail, small case production and current market conditions. And to be clear, some of this is due to the current Regime’s crackdown on migrant labor, which has significant implications for the future of agricultural success in this part of Colorado, where immigrant farm labor is strong.

It’s very hard for smaller wineries to engage in the kind of marketing or PR that generates wider visibility and sales outside their local region. What distresses me (and producers!)–and why I note how important it is to support, buy from, and have shipped wines–is the lack of support for CO wineries from local retailers and worse yet, restaurants. Imagine if California restaurants and retailers all but ignored selling their own local wines in lieu of European wines? There are many wines noted below (and just a selection of my preferred Very Good to Truly Excellent and distinctive ones) that are as good as anything made in the Golden State and elsewhere globally.

I don’t want to make this post longer than it is; let the notes speak. In fact, skip around, look at the entries for wineries that intrigue you, perhaps. Don’t necessarily read it all the way through, but I wanted to get all the information out there in one go, since many of these wines are made in very limited quantities (<100 cases). GO to winery websites to learn more about these committed, family producers.

ABBREVIATIONS: CS= Cabernet Sauvignon, CF+ Cabernet Franc, PV+ Petit Verdot, Temp= Tempranillo, SB+ Sauvignon Blanc, Viog+ Viognier, PG= Pinot Gris, FO= French Oak, AO+ American Oak

ALFRED EAMES CELLARS

Home vineyard (Puesta del Sol, is 3 miles south of Paonia at base of Mt Lamborn, around 5700’. Planted to Pinot Noir only (25+ years old now, Pommard and Wadenswil clone). Approx 1200 case production.

Alfred Eames Cellars 2023 Pinot Noir Estate West Elks (Paonia) AVA Fullish ruby color. Fragrant, black cherry, rooty, earthy bouquet. Own-rooted (ungrafted) vines. Dark fruit, medium+ body with loamy black-cherry-berry flavors, fine tannins and real depth on finish. More textured mid-palate definition like a good Chalonnaise PN from Burgundy but denser. Very distinctive, well balanced, even unique young Pinot. Good Value. Now-2028 13.50% ** (+) $30

Alfred Eames Cellars 2023 Vino Tinto Grand Valley AVA (+) A bit of everything! Medium deep ruby, hint garnet. Full body. Lots of fruit with dense black berry, sour cherry and loamy earthy aromas. Fine firm tannins, good length, still vigorous and youthful. Less sophisticated or classy, perhaps than the Pinot Noir, but a solid juicy mouthful. Good Value. Now-2030 14% **- $25

Alfred Eames Cellars 2020 Collage Red, Grand Valley Cab Sauv40%, Merlot/Cab Franc 30% each. Vegetal, black cherry and plum sweet fruit bouquet-on the ripe side! Solid black fruit, cassis and plum flavors with firmer tannins than the Vino Tinto, more length and longer finish. A more ámplified’ wine’, better fleshed out. Good value. Now-2030 14.50% ** $27

Alfred Eames Cellars 2023 Syrah, Whitewater Vyd., Grand Valley Developing ruby, no violet color Rich cassis, graphite flavors and bouquet! Medium + body. Solid dark berry, peppery flavors with pretty strong, firm finish and focused mid-palate (moderate pH?). Good value. Now-2028. 14.50% **(+) $27

Alfred Eames Cellars 2023 Petite Sirah, Sullivan Vyd, Grand Valley Not a lot of this deep-colored powerful grape is grown in Colorado, a pity if this is any indication of the potential! Even darker violet ruby to Syrah. Full black berry, licorice and black pepper bouquet and flavors, Medium + body, Dense, fine if firm tannins framing rich purple fruit flavors. Good acid. Well structured but not oversized or lacking in some finer definition. Now-2032. 14% ** $30

BOOKCLIFF VINEYARDS

Bookcliff Vineyards 2023 Malbec Estate, Grand Valley More vivid ruby-violet youthful color. Cedar-herbal, slightly bretty aromas like old school Bordeaux; pungent, animal-earthy, savory. Medium body. Fine tannins, claret-like dark berry & earthy-savory fruit with cedary finish; more Cahors-like character; less bold than Colterris’. Stylish, ready now-2027, and more forward but ripe than the CF above. 13.60% **- $26

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