People outside of Colorado might be surprised to learn that this mountainous state makes wine. A tiny wine industry has grown up in a few river valleys and plateaus away from the towering 14,000-foot peaks of the Rockies, based on 800 acres of wine grapes and some 150 small wineries.

Consumers might be even more astounded at the outstanding quality of some of the state’s better offerings. Colorado winemakers make excellent versions of classic types like cabernet franc, syrah, malbec and riesling, along with clean, balanced versions of lesser known blends and varieties from albariño to zweigelt.

We tasted 53 wines from 15 wineries and found 36 deserving of 90-point ratings or higher. Two reds made from Bordeaux varieties earned the highest scores, but there was enough diversity among the other top wines to keep a person happy for weeks uncorking a bottle a day.

The Bookcliff Vineyards Malbec Colorado Hawkridge 2023 was one of the two best among an admittedly small sample set that was organized by the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board. This elegant, super well-balanced wine is alive with fruit acidity and long on the finish.

Malbec has shown to be a winner at high elevations in Argentina, so it makes some sense that it might do well in Colorado, where most of the wine grapes grow well above 4,000 feet (1,220 meters).

The Grand Valley American Viticultural District in the Western Slope region comprises the majority of the state’s vineyard acres. It straddles the Colorado River in a high valley, where the Bookcliff Malbec vines are rooted in volcanic soil at 4,800 feet.

Bookcliff’s co-owner and winemaker, Will Thompson, said that Grand Valley’s elevation, summer heat and intense sunlight are somewhat similar to Mendoza, Argentina. Hard freezes in spring and summer are the main challenge to growing vinifera grapes, he said, yet between bud break in late April and a harvest that finishes in October, the grapes have a long enough growing season to build good sugar ripeness in most years.

Our other highest-rated find was the Colterris Winery Petit Verdot Grand Valley 2023, a sleek, elegant version of Bordeaux’s perhaps most tannic, tight grape variety. It’s full-bodied, ripe and enticing.

Winemaker Bo Felton makes it from grapes grown on Colterris’s 190-acre property. His 2023 malbec and a cabernet franc were also outstanding. Five other cab francs from various wineries showed how well suited this grape is for Colorado’s growing conditions.

Several less tannic, less imposing reds were terrific in quality, too. Consider the Continental Divide Pinot Noir Colorado Hawk’s Nest Vineyard 2022, a light-bodied red that’s aromatic in cherry, watermelon and cinnamon, nicely tensioned and charming. For a fresh-tasting red from an Austrian grape variety, there’s the Fallen Mountain Zweigelt Grand Valley Cañon Vineyard 2024, which offers great acid balance and vivid berry flavors. And raspberry, black pepper and toasted wood flavors make the medium-bodied Restoration Pinotage Grand Valley Delikaat 2024 one of the best American versions of this South African variety we’ve ever tasted.

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